Afternoon Tea in Borneo: From 7-Star Luxury to $2 Street Sips
Borneo is a land of extremes. One day, you’re trekking through humid jungles looking for orangutans, and the next, you’re sitting in a gold-clad lobby sipping Earl Grey.
If you're a Brit like me, there's no way that this doesn't appeal. The warm, homely feeling of a hot cuppa juxtaposed with the exciting Bornean landscapes was a wonderful experience that I recommend everyone has at least once.
But afternoon tea in Borneo doesn't have to be a $100 affair. Will you want the full white-glove treatment at the world-famous Empire Brunei? Or would you prefer a local $2 "Kaya Toast" experience in a Kota Kinabalu backstreet? I’ve broken down the best spots for every budget.
The Ultra-Splurge:
The Empire Brunei (Bandar Seri Begawan)
If you’ve read my guide on
Giant marble columns, views of the South China Sea, and live piano music.
$35 BND ($26 USD / £20) per person for the weekend set.
This is only available on Saturdays and Sundays (3:00 PM – 5:30 PM). You must book via email at least 48 hours in advance as it fills up with locals. One set is very filling; you can share if you aren't starving.
The Sunset Tea:
Shangri-La Tanjung Aru (Kota Kinabalu)
In Sabah, the afternoon tea at the Shangri-La is all about the location. It’s served in the Lobby Lounge, which looks directly out over the gardens and the ocean.
Breezy, tropical, and sophisticated. It’s the best place in KK to hide from the afternoon heat.
RM 128 net per set for two persons ($27 USD / £21).
This works out to just $13.50 USD per person. It is the ultimate "Budget Luxury" hack in KK. No need to stay at the resort. Tell the security gate you are heading to the Lobby Lounge.
The Colonial Classic:
English Tea House, Sandakan (My Personal Favourite)
If you’re heading to see the orangutans in Sepilok, you’ll likely pass through Sandakan. This restaurant sits on a hill overlooking the bay and feels like a time capsule from the 1920s.
Croquet on the lawn, white wicker chairs, and proper scones with clotted cream.
Approx. RM 70 per person ($15 USD / £11) for the Classic Tea Platter.
Use Grab or InDrive to get here. Don't try to walk up the hill in the Sandakan humidity unless you want your tea served with a side of heatstroke.
The "Real" Borneo Tea:
The Kopitiam Hack (Budget Choice)
For the true "AtoBe" experience, skip the hotels and head to a Kopitiam (traditional coffee shop). In Malaysia and Brunei, "Afternoon Tea" isn't a silver tower of cakes—it's Teh Tarik and Kaya Toast.
Where to go in KK: Fook Yuen Cafe (Gaya Street). Order the Roti Kahwin (Cold butter and Kaya jam).
Where to go in BSB: Jing Chew (Gadong). It’s a Brunei institution.
$2 - $4 USD (£1.50 - £3).
High energy, plastic stools, and the best tea you’ll ever have for under five dollars.
Next Steps
If you are planning to travel from Brunei to Kota Kinabalu by bus after your afternoon tea, get your passport ready. Because of the way the borders weave in and out of the Malaysian state of Sarawak, this 6-hour journey involves 4 border crossings and a whopping 8 passport stamps in a single afternoon.
It is a "Passport Party" like nowhere else on earth, but there is a major catch: if you have a sim card for only one of the countries, you won't have any signal on an extremely long bus ride.
I use Saily to stay connected. Saily is incredibly reliable in SE Asia. You can pre-load both a Brunei and a Malaysia plan onto a single eSIM before you leave so that your signal switches automatically across all 4 of the border crossings. Access Saily: HERE.
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